It may seem like a contradiction to say so, but defining colours by their names is not really a black and white issue.
Different people see different colours in different ways and the colour adjectives used with some words are admittedly a bit off.
Red onions and red grapes are more of a purple colour, and white grapes tend to be green.
In fact red is a colour which can be applied to all varieties of shades and hues, especially when it comes to beer, with no real uniformly accepted meaning.
Before Ireland became inextricably linked with the black stuff, red ale was the indigenous beer style here. Irish reds of note include Smithwick’s, Beamish Red and Kilkenny and all three are quite different in colour.
The American take on the red ale tends towards a rich amber colour, the kind you see between green and red on a set of traffic lights (of course, not after you’ve knocked a few back unless you’re in the passenger’s seat).
I marvelled at the differing interpretations of ‘red’ ale this week after cracking open a can of Spadetown’s Ragin’ Red Ale.
Coming in a 440ml can from the ever-improving Lurgan-based brewers, this is a 4 per cent malt-forward ale.
The first thing you notice on the pour is just how dark this beer is. It’s not even ruby red, it’s a deep, almost mahogany colour in the glass, virtually opaque, topped off with a lovely frothy, slightly tan head. If you even half glanced at it you might even think it was a stout.
The aromas are sweet and toffee-like, with only the mildest hint of hops. There’s a rich, malty taste which floods across the palate on first gulp and a satisfying smoothness which follows.
At 4 per cent, this might be classed as a session ale, but there’s enough going on flavour-wise for this to be a slow sipper. It needs to be savoured and enjoyed. The Veda-like malt gives way to smooth, caramel flavours and that snap of bitterness you get more from roasted barley than hops.
There’s a bit of smokey vibe too, but nothing that lingers all that much and, all in all, this is a beautifully balanced, moreish red ale – whatever that means.
